by Dick Brewer - if anyone should know he would:

I wanted to ask about the "Hawaiian Scale" for judging wave size.

"It came about because the guys at Sunset always like to scare the young guys from California. So when they're looking out at real ten foot faces, fifteen foot peaks on takeoff, they call it eight feet. Kinda cutting it in half and it was something that everybody always did, so now they justify it by going "Oh well the back of the wave is eight feet but the front of it is twelve or fifteen." But when they look at a wave they always undercall it in Hawaii."

Intressant!

Det var ett tag sen den har diskussionen var uppe. Kanske dags att dra igang den igen hehe!

Har aldrig matt baksidan och kommer aldrig gora det. Foredrar att tillagga "faces" om jag snackar med folk som har fatt det dar om bakfoten, aven pa Hawaii. Om det leder till missforstand bryr jag mig inte om. Ett annat vanligt "misstag" ar att mata avstandet fran brada till vagtopp. Att man redan star en bit upp pa vagens face nar man rider down the line gloms ofta bort.

Asikter och funderingar?

Haller med, enda korrekta ar att sag face size.. typ det var gubbhogt pa face...

Gubbhogt kan vara mellan 1-6ft beroende pa vem man pratar med.. Annars nar jag pratar fot sa brukar jag kora denna skala

1ft kna-rov

2ft midje-brost

4 ft huvud

6ft 1 1/2 huvud.

8-10ft dubbelgubbe

12-16ft trippel to quadruble...

Horde ett citat nan som towade chopes:

It was 2ft hawaiian on the back but 40ft on the face...


1ft indo =4ft irlandsk = 6-8ft svensk?

Det enda vettiga jag hört någon säga angående vågstorlek är när de ärligt beskrivit det i stil med att det varit "solid" eller "fun size". Å andra sidan skiter jag personligen fullständigt i vetenskapliga metoder, m, ft på både bak och framsida både när jag surfar eller snackar surf och bryr mig enbart om hur jag/han/hon har upplevt det jag vill ju bara höra på och dela lite stoke

The BOS scale:

-ankle to knee high: NERD crew size

-overhead+: BOS size

anything in between? we call it, thigh to head high

definitiivt face, blev ofta missförstådd när jag bodde i oz och sa att det var säkert 3-4ft, alltså axelhögt till huvud, då de trodde jag också mätte baksidan precis som dem.

Var inte helt med på vad du menade Redax, menar du att det normala misstaget är att säga att vågen är mindre än den egentligen är? Iaf. är en huvudhög för mig när vågen är över mitt huvud när man t ex gör en bottom-turn eller så.

Oftast är vågen som störst i take-off såklart, kanske är det så att man ofta säger den som storleken. I övrigt håller jag nog med om Andiss mått-skala mer eller mindre.

Har en kompis nere å Skåne, +3m face kallar han för Axel-högt. På stora-lördagen, kallade han vågorna för dubbelgubbe, jag undrar hur jag hade mätt dem?!

kan ente mata huvudhig om vagen ar huvudhog i sin bottom run.. for kor man grymma laga bottumturns kan ju midjehogt va huvudhogt!

Iallafall tycker man ska mata pa shouldern ocksa o ente take off.. eller kora

take off var 6ft men shouldern 4ft pa face?!

SharkBoy skrev:
The BOS scale:

-ankle to knee high: NERD crew size

-overhead+: BOS size

anything in between? we call it, thigh to head high

I can tell the story about Nerdcrew size: When we in BOS are talking about nerdcrew size we are talking about ankle to knee high waves. This is because thats the biggest wave ever seen ridden of a nerd. But when Nerdcrew are talking about the same size they call it overhead waves, this is because Nerdcrew is allways laying down on the board measure it from that view, they are allso wiping out from laying down on their boards, sometimes from a slightly higher position with a knee on the board.

he he he...

Njae alltså Andiss, tror du vet vad jag menade, precis efter takeoff så brukar väl många resa lite på sig, är då läppen ovanför huvudet, head-high. Nåväl.

Daniel skrev:
Njae alltså Andiss, tror du vet vad jag menade, precis efter takeoff så brukar väl många resa lite på sig, är då läppen ovanför huvudet, head-high. Nåväl.

Njae alltså Daniel, är då läppen ovanför huvudet, overhead.

You turdjockies have no idea how right you are! In 1965 I was a solicited member of a junior club to Malibu Surfing Assoc. called - Overhead S.A. - we just said Overhead - (named after the freeway overpass - strangely it only really breaks on overhead days so today lot's of ppl think that's where it got it's name) we got a LOT of grief from a South Bay club when I became a member because EVERYONE jumped the wagon , "oh, GAZ overhead - now how overhead is that to us NORMAL folks then, har har har " They choked on their beef jerky when we wiped them clean out on home turf on their own challange AND own judges!! So now BOS has some real surf histroy to ponder - for a change from the usual drabble.

BTW, you might have guessed already but I'm not the kind of person that thinks size matters, fortunatly for me either does my sambo!!!

As far a suring goes (Oh, BOS seems to forget this is a SURFforum) after small mush anything rideable is fine with me - uh after 3x overhead I might be LOT more carefull and 4xoverhead I almost never had the opportunity. Had a bad ear that day at Pria de Coxos (yeah, sure, Gaz) Monster day - the ground was shaking in town!!

could you repeat that I couldn't be bothered to read it all

Tar seden dit man kommer....eller vad attans det heter. Pratar man med en ozzy sa snackar man 3ft = huvud högt, 5-6ft = ca dubbel gubbe osv. Pratar man med nagon nybörjare eller nagon man inte vet var han/hon är ifran är det nog bäst att mäta i face, huvud högt, dubbel gubbe osv maste man oftast förklara. Face är oftast ganska sa lätt förstatt.

Pratar man om hur stor surfen var sa är det nog bäst att nämna storleken i 2-4ft, 3-5ft, 4-6ft osv.

Sen har man det klasiska uttrycket "solid", 4ft solid = 4ft eller lite till. Men används bara när det blir större.

Kapten

Jag anser tvartemot att alla Aussies ska anamma mina seder nar jag ar pa besok. De far helt enkelt anpassa sig eller sa far det va hehe. Sen har vi ju t.ex. det har med ketchup pa spagettis vara eller icke vara. Som svennebanan ar ju detta en sjalvklarhet, men anda har jag fatt ta emot manga hanskratt av mina utlandska vanner. Kulturkrock?

Svenskar är kassa på att bedöma fötter hit och dit så svensk surf får mätas i meter!

jag hatar nar longboarders snackar storlek...

"It was 2ft and lovely" vilket oftast betyder en cp slapp vag som knappt gar over knat..

magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=32647


har har vi 2ft

magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=21274

6ft

magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=18413

15ft

magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=22060

Double over big toe är ett bra uttryck. Då fattar man att det inte är lönt att ta sig till stranden.

Ett väldigt svenskt mått vi använder i Uppsala är alnar. "Shit alltså, det var minst 5 alnar i droppet och cliiiiiint som fan."

Här kör vi trädmått:
nedre grenen, upp till kotte, julgranstopp, 5-åring (tall), över tallen (ganska vanligt här), asphög etc etc. och då mäts självklart baksidan vågen. hehe

Why not just mention both measures like Gary Linden:

...If I could surf Waimea with just a few people out that would be next. It has warm water. One day we caught it about 20 feet, about 35 to 40 foot faces with Elijah Young and Cheyne Horanjust the three of us. We had three hours by ourselves and that was incredible...

magicseaweed.com/Big-Wave-Surfing%3A-Insights-from-surfer-shaper-legend-Gary-Linden-Article/297/

In the same article I love when he goes:

There is that thrill that you aren't going to make it. And then when you do The elated sensation when you do accomplish it, or you don't...but the wipeout is fun too.

oversta bilden i artikeln har underbar känsla

Of course it makes no friggen difference but Gary was my mentor and life's breath when my mom moved to the f::::ing valley from Encinitas when I was 13 - he had just opened a shop right down the street and had totally no customers .....he was a lot different than any other surfer/person, low key, didn't smoke, drink or do drugs, was definatly NOT into being famous or "known" he was just cruzin' and doin' his own thing, pro'ly only make a few boards a week at that point but was well respected and his boards showd up under the feet of the best surfers of the time. Buzz Sutfin, David Nuhewa, Miceky Dora and others - this was in 1961 - we lost contact when I moved back to Cardiff and we both ended up leaving about the same time - he moved to Hawaii and me - well eventually I got stuck here in Sweden ........

When I was 12 i used to go iceskating in HC Dalen ice hockey rink. Theee was an ex HV71 player there called OVE. I then moved to Ireland. It's a hard Life.

I wasn't actually doing the name dropping thing - which I tried to stress already from the beginning .. Gary was a very low key person and into "keeping it real" which inspired me and is still today a part of who I am in some ways anyway .... he was one of the first surfers ever to initiate youth projects for kids in dis functional families - which included me. So it's meant a lot to me on that level and that's why I am today involved with kids here in Östhammar - thanks to Gary. Sitting and talking with him in the shop was a thought process about who we are and where we're going - a process that should, hopefully, never end as long as one. lives ....

Name dropping with absolutly no purpose would be like this: In 1982 I was visiting my sister in Woodland Hills, Calif. VERY ritsy area, microwave ovens were the latest and greatest thing going --- one evening her neighbours across the street had a problem with one and the kitchen caught on fire. Lots of fire trucks, police cars, hoses all over the place - etc ... Being a sorts of photographer I'm "covering the scene" and took some photos of the host pair and a woman and a man standing more or less beside me on my sisters lawn. It was Paul McCartney but the woman was NOT Linda. He asked me in a very polite way to not make those particular photos public - it would just hurt people he said. Unfortunatly I have today no idea where those negatives are - someday someone will find them in my archive. Now THAT'S a totally pointless and meaningless name dropping story - see the difference?

No...

Krisnamurti asked once at a talk in Ojai if one could get their head around the idea that God was a product of the mind. Some Baghwan followers in the crowd answered "No" Krisnamurti replyied, "I thought not" ...

Ok, först sätter du dig i samma båt som massa påhittade och verkliga "kultsurfare" sen claimar du att du har tidernas bilder men att det inte betyder något för dig (detta gör du dessutom genom en slags spegel vinkling att du inte ville säga de), ungefär lika smart som att jag skulle säga: " Att jag skulle gå ut o skriva att jag har surfat 15 meters vågor skulle vara att skryta men det vill jag inte och därför har jag inte skrivit det jag just skrev

Och sist men inte minst jämför du dig i viss mån med den upplyste Krishnamurti,

Nu har du jävlar i mig Gazzrat loss ordentligt du !!!

Does that mean you don't to hear about the time I stayed a week at Marlon Brandos cottage/hut on Tavaru? OK, then I wouldn't even bring it up then ....... .

I'm intrigued... how did you end up there? Great stories by the way!

Vore kul att höra mer såna här historier, men om Surfsverige. Jag kan t.ex. börja med att berätta att jag ärvde min första bräda av Klangen via Garage Surfshop i Enskede.

Well my mom was secretary to his agent that handeled all his personal goings-on including travel arrangments etc. They had booked the whole series of flights and passages to Tavaru then he just decide not to go. My older sister, and her two horney friends wanted to go and hey took me along to give them some surfing lessons. Being only 15 I learned a few things about women on that trip but that's whole nother story.................... BTW, That's the first time anyone eoutside my immedite family ever used the expression "Gee wizz Gaz!"

You also have: "- that was a Gaz, man!"