Den första surfdrömmen vad jag kan minnas.
Ta mig på orden när jag säger att den var verklig, har inte haft en dröm så verklig på väldigt länge.
Pulsen va i storvågsmode, adrenalinet på topp.
De va både najs och läskigt på samma gång.
På engelska för den som ville höra mer hajjar inte svenska åså tänkte jag att surfsverige kan få ta del av min dröm oxå.
Ctrl V.
De här såg och tänkte jag i min dröm.
I was surfing at Bore with Nigel Ponkana and Charge Martin and it was ok size waves and we had fun, they were close to beach and I was a bit further out with some dude on my left side when a fucking huge wave came in, now im not talking like a big one for that day, I mean it was a twenty meter wave, like the biggest one people surf in this world. And it came right at me and started to break. I heard Nigel Ponkana and Charge Martin screaming in a way that was stoked, not panic more like wow fuck Marqs is out there wohooo, he better stay focused. The guy to the left made it impossible for me to paddle around the wave which I maybe could have done if he wouldnt have been there, so I just had to really try reading this new size of wave for me and decide if to paddle fast against it or just slow paddle until the moment of diving under it, because I really didnt wanna get hit by the lip. And when I paddled I saw everything so clear and real and I was really there.
It closed in on me and I looked up from where I was laying on my little board and I saw the monster starting to break fiften meters up at the top and starting to roll, a gentle wave I thought , a roller, cool thats good imma be dragged down for a good while but hopefully there is no more waves behind this one and I paddled against it at full speed preparing to duckdive it when I to my horrors saw that it started to tube up and prepared to throw down the lip so I kind of stopped paddeling for a second and at that point the dream was so realistic it was sick I saw the lip, the wave, the guy on the left side. I told myself that panic is death in this case as always on the sea but even more now. And then I saw the huge amount of water coming down at me from way up there and I ditched the board and dived down the same second the lip hit the surface.
I was just under the surface when the the lip hit and last thing before I woke up was the feeling of an earthquake. And I woke up cathing a big breath (!), realizing I was in my bed I got both happy and disappointed.
And the weird part!
When woke up I decided to read a book and I did it for one or two hours and then I fell asleep again and I was back!!
Behind the point where the waves broke, sitting there on my board, one second twenty meters up and the next inna valley between the waves, Chargemartin and Nigel Ponkana was on the beach looking at me and the other guy was gone. I sat there thinking how the fuck I was gonna get in, there where no vissible way out except maybe cathing a wave and surfing the face in to the beach, but I didnt know if it was gonna close out on me as often at Bore.
I sat for a while wathing the sickest view of my life, as far as I could see I saw huge waves rolling in towards the shore, it was pretty damn magic.
Then I woke up again from my dads noises making breakfast.
Såhär i efterhand har jag konstaterat att jag inte borde ditchat brädan, ingen va ju bakom så de va dock lugnt men leashen var bara för mindre vågor!
Vad jag borde gjort borde varit att ta tag i leashen längst in vid brädan och simma ner med den, eller en jävla duckdajv och hållit i brädan som fan men hade nog fan inte gått, så ett stadigt grepp om kardborre delen känns vettigast.
Respekt till er som surfar stora vågor!
De va fan intensivt.
