Saxat från hans blogg.

i rescued a bug today. a big fellow came in through the open slider about dusk. he was lost. must have been going home after work and was distracted by our living room lights. he made several passes at the light before succumbing to confusion and settled on the ground. i picked him up and took him outside where he got his bearings and flew on. courtney also rescued four bugs from drowning at the pool while sunbathing. i have no images of this. tomorrow i surf in the quiksilver pro in the first heat.

haha var han dragen eller?

hehe, nästa dagboksinlägg.


feeling bad about lack of preparation i decided to surf snapper rocks after the competition ended. i rode a rocker ridden 6'1" 3/4. if i tried to count how many people were out i would have lost track. I saw Mick Fanning flying down the line and scrambled out of his way to duck dive. when i resurfaced he was flying through the air with his board flipping and fluttering through the air behind him. dane gadauskas' put a stop to that. micks surfboard stopped bluntly on the top of his head. his head hung in the water for a few moments and i was preparing for a rescue. he looked up and spoke: "that was classic." i don't think he was ok. he paddled in. snapper rocks is dangerous. i also hit a log while riding a wave. i caught 6 waves. more than i expected. more of an obstacle course than a wave. i exited the water without gaining any preparation. I've told 4 people this story.

Hahahahahah vad i hela friden? skumma inlägg

Nej Maiorana, läs Carlos Castaneda, så ska du förstå...

haha han är ju lika flummig som Paulo Coelho!